Journey to the Fine Cocoa of Madagascar
Terroir and Origin – Upper Sambirano, North West Madagascar
Madagascar, is the 4th largest Island in the world - is 2.5 times the size of the UK, lies in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Mozambique in Africa. It was quite recently inhabited by humans ( circa 2000 years ago) originally of Asian descent. The people of Madagascar are called the “Malagasy” and speak the “Malagasy” language. Population is 20 million. The island lies between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn. The central highlands are over 1000 m high, offering a cooler “Mediterranean” climate. This is where the capital lies – Antanananarivo – translates to "a place of a 1000 people". On the north west and whole east side coastline lies the Rainforest in the tropical climate . Unique plants and animals live in Madagascar, cannot be found anywhere else is the world , their habitat is threatened by mankind’s unsustainable activities.
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Fine cocoa was introduced into Madagascar in the 1800’s , originally on the east coast near to a town called Anivorano. It is now grown in north west Madagascar, Sambirano Valley, near to small town called Ambanja, and Nosy Be Islands. See the red flag on the map above.
Chocoaterie Robert, Malagasy Chocolatier and Cocoa Farmers, grow fine cocoa in the Sambirano upper valley, where the soil and climate are ideal to grow the finest cocoa.
High Sambirano that include Bemanevika, Maevatanana, Ambohimarina, Marovato have been subject to international tests and varietal improvement dominance of Criollo Sambirano for the last 60 years. The combination of the natural minerals, soils, microclimate, flower and fauna and topography provide a unique biome or "terroir" where the Fine cocoa has evolved to produce its very special fruity flavour characteristic.
Chocoaterie Robert, Malagasy Chocolatier and Cocoa Farmers, grow fine cocoa in the Sambirano upper valley, where the soil and climate are ideal to grow the finest cocoa.
High Sambirano that include Bemanevika, Maevatanana, Ambohimarina, Marovato have been subject to international tests and varietal improvement dominance of Criollo Sambirano for the last 60 years. The combination of the natural minerals, soils, microclimate, flower and fauna and topography provide a unique biome or "terroir" where the Fine cocoa has evolved to produce its very special fruity flavour characteristic.
Fine cocoa trees needs the shade from the sun, so that is why Cocoa trees grow under the canopy of the Rainforest. This means there is an economic incentive to reforest Madagascar by producing the finest cocoa and chocolate. Thus, creating a sustainable and growing haven for the endangered animals and fauna of Madagascar.
There are two cocoa growing seasons in Madagascar – October to November and May to June. They grow naturally without chemicals.
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They are grown and tended by Malagasy Farmers that are trained by Chocolaterie Robert. |
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These cocoa pods, look like rugby balls, are carefully handpicked. For the Cocoa
Pods growing high up the tree and out of reach requires the “Lagaf” tool, a knife at the end
of a stick.
Wonderful and varied colours of the Cocoa Pods.
The original varieties grown was the rare Criollo, and over the last two centuries they have evolved to form own unique hybrids of criollo- trinitario and forastero, that have wonderful fruity (citrus, berries, dried fruit) flavour notes. Chocolaterie Robert has also quite recently replanted fine cocoa at the original Anivorano location on the east side of Madagascar, where the first harvest is expected in two years time.
Fine cocoa genus types grown, Criollo ( left), Trinitario ( middle), Forastero (right), that have evolved in the local environment. These cocoa
pods are opened up by the farmers using a Machette knife.
Inside the cocoa pod, white pulp surrounds the beans. Below is a cross section
of a cocoa pod, about 40 beans per fine cocoa pod.
The fine beans are weighed and the quality are determined by Chocolaterie Robert.
These beans then are carefully crafted into Fine Cocoa beans to be ready for Chocolate making. Technical Director Hery Andriamampianina of Chocolaterie Robert determines the fine quality together with the Malagasy Cocoa Farmers and Preparers.
The first process is “Fermentation”. This process is analogous to making Fine Wine from fine grapes where the sugars of the grapes are fermented by yeast to make alcohol and complex wine flavours. For the Fine cocoa, the white pulp and beans are put into wooden vats and are covered ( usually banana leaves).
The fermentation process begins with the growth of micro-organisms. In particular, yeasts grow on the pulp surrounding the beans. The natural yeasts convert the sugars in the pulp surrounding the beans to ethanol.
The fine cocoa beans fermentation over 2-5 days, this is carefully controlled depending on the harvest and bean variety.
Bacteria start to oxidise the ethanol to acetic acid and then to carbon dioxide and water, producing more heat and raising the temperature. The temperature is raised to 40C to 45C during the first 48 hours of fermentation.
The fine cocoa beans fermentation over 2-5 days, this is carefully controlled depending on the harvest and bean variety.
Bacteria start to oxidise the ethanol to acetic acid and then to carbon dioxide and water, producing more heat and raising the temperature. The temperature is raised to 40C to 45C during the first 48 hours of fermentation.
In the remaining days, bacterial activity continues under increasing aeration conditions as the pulp drains away and the temperature is maintained. The process of turning or mixing the beans increases aeration and, consequently, bacterial activity. The acetic acid and high temperatures kill the cocoa bean by the second day. The death of the bean causes cell walls to break down and previously segregated substances to mix. This allows complex chemical changes to take place in the bean such as enzyme activity, oxidation and the breakdown of proteins into amino acids. These chemical reactions cause the chocolate flavour and colour to develop.
These fermented beans are then dried in the sun, with facilities to protect from the occasional rain.
Dried Fine Fermented Cocoa.
The humidity test, determines the correct moisture content. If too damp , it could cause mould growth and “off” flavours.
The “superior” quality of the Fine Cocoa is determined by the Cut test, looking for fermentation quality ( visual) and % levels of genus type to determine the optimum taste characteristics for premium chocolate making.
Below shows the cross section of the fermented and dried cocoa varieties. Left Criollo ( lighter colour), Trinitario (middle) , Forastero (right). Unlike most Chocolate, our Fine Dark Chocolate is a lighter brown/red colour because of the dominance of the rare Criollo-Trinitario.
Quality control , checks if well fermented, dried, sorted and selected with high rate of Criollo-Trinitario and uniformity of the size of the beans.
The Fine Cocoa is packed in Jute Bags to allow the dried and fermented cocoa to breathe.
These are either exported or uniquely transported to the Chocolate Factory in Madagascar.
You can purchase these Fine Sambirano Cocoa Beans, and make your own Fine Chocolate here.
To craft the fine cocoa into fresh Chocolate, the sacks are trucked to the Chocolaterie Robert factory, Antananarivo in the cool highlands of Madagascar.
The Malagasy Farmers and Preparers continuously learn about the quality of the resulting fine chocolate from the cocoa they have nurtured.
These are either exported or uniquely transported to the Chocolate Factory in Madagascar.
You can purchase these Fine Sambirano Cocoa Beans, and make your own Fine Chocolate here.
To craft the fine cocoa into fresh Chocolate, the sacks are trucked to the Chocolaterie Robert factory, Antananarivo in the cool highlands of Madagascar.
The Malagasy Farmers and Preparers continuously learn about the quality of the resulting fine chocolate from the cocoa they have nurtured.
The economic activity of Fine cocoa growing and preparing by Chocolaterie Robert supports 500 Malagasy families in Sambirano.
Bio ORGANIC Certified by ECOCERT Fine Cocoa – Chocolaterie Robert Madagascar
Although chemicals are not used in growing the Fine Cocoa , in 2013 Chocolaterie Robert Malagasy Cocoa Farmers have implemented separate growing and preparation facilities that can be audited by international organic certification body ECOCERT.
Although chemicals are not used in growing the Fine Cocoa , in 2013 Chocolaterie Robert Malagasy Cocoa Farmers have implemented separate growing and preparation facilities that can be audited by international organic certification body ECOCERT.
